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Harpers Abroad
UK
June 2002

Hippo Point, Kenya

Grazing hippopotamuses look as small as guinea pigs if observed from the summit of Hippo Point's 130-foot tower, set among fever trees and papyrus on the isthmus between the Rift Valley lakes of Naivasha and Oloidien, But descend the winding stair to ground level and what hoves into view resembles a herd of mobile, two-ton Henry Moore sculptures mowing the lawns. The pagoda-like tower is among Kenya's most spectacular follies, built in 1993 by Michael Cunningham-Reid for his wife, Dodo, one of East Africa's most treasured eccentrics. Also on the 600-acre estate is Hippo Point House, the original settler's home built in 1928. Like the tower, it has views over lake Oloidien and distant, bluish volcanic hills. In the garden are more anomalies: roses bloom next to avocado trees raided by colobus monkeys. At first sight, the estate resembles the parklands of an English stately home, but all is not sd it initially appears: mighty acacias replace oaks; eland, zebra and buffalo crop the grass instead of the deer; and pink flamingos and pelicans glide across the lake where you'd expect swans. The hippopotamuses are from the resident families. By day, they wallow in water, chuckling as they waggle their ears. At night they emerge to ramble on dry land -one has been known to invade the dining room. Outside, they can be watched through supplied night-vision device.

WILD COMFORTS Dodo has made Hippo Point an oasis of understated, tasteful opulence, from the Russian linen sheets to the murals and paintings of Kenya's finest artists. Stay here and the whole place is yours: probably the finest swimming pool in East Africa (20 mt); a clinker-built sailing dinghy and two speedboats, including a classic Italian beauty with white pig-leather seats; and excellent, healthy food prepared by the French manager and served by some 30 staff. Dozens of activities can be arranged for you to enjoy during your stay: fishing, waterskiing, riding or lotus-eaing -say and it wil be so. Hippo Point is next to a private game reserve and teems with wildlife. But it is also located in the very navel of Kenya, making it a perfect springboard for safaris.

WILDERNESS FACTOR The rambling estate is only 15 minutes' flight from Nairobi. The 6 mile drive takes one-and-a-half hours, winding down the Rift Valley escarpment, past the black Longonot volcano, and skirting the picturesque shore of lake Naivasha.